I bought this brooch near 10 years ago from a dealer in America. When I first saw the brooch it was in a bad way, bent, stones missing and a broken clasp. So why did I buy a brooch in such a bad state? It is what is known as a ‘Book Piece’, which means it is mentioned in a respected reference book. The book in question is by Ginger Moro entitled ‘European Designer Jewelry’ published in 1995 by Schiffer Publishing ltd. It can be found on page 50 of the book, in the section headed Chapter 1 France. Ginger Moro describes the brooch as “Cartier-style ‘doorknocker’ silver brooch with melon-cut ‘emeralds’ and crystal and marked ‘Made in France’.”
Ginger Moro was born in Larchmont New York State on 15th August 1930, she moved to Los Angles in the late 1940s and starred in a number of films joining Bob Hope’s USO tours entertaining troops in Korea and Tokyo in the early 1950s. During a USO tour of Europe she decided to remain in Paris and stayed for 16years. When in Paris she studied art history at the Ecole du Louvre and owned an antiques shop. She married the director Russ Moro and returned with her family to California in the 1970s where she continued to collect and research 20th century decorative arts and vintage costume jewellery for the rest of her life. Ginger Moro died on 27th March 2023.
Cartier is one of the best-known jewellery designers, with a client list that reads like a Who’s Who. Louis-François Cartier founded his jewellery business in Paris in 1847, and his son Alfred took over the business in 1874. But it was Alfred’s three sons – Louis, Pierre and Jacques who made the company an international success. A branch was opened in London in 1902 and in New York 1909. There have been numerous famous clients including King Edward VII, Wallace Simpson Duchess of Windsor, King Farouk of Egypt, Grace Kelly, Clarke Gable, Elizabeth Taylor and Taylor Swift.
The V&A museum in London currently have a fabulous Cartier Exhibition, showcasing some of the firm’s most spectacular work.
One of my favourite pieces is an amethyst, sapphire and diamond brooch set in platinum 1933 made for Nelly Cartier by her husband Jacques Cartier as a present. The brooch symbolised their family. Nelly was the amethyst at the centre, surrounded by their four children, the diamond corners and Jacques the sapphires around the edge. Sapphires were Jacques’s birth stone and a particular favourite.
I sent my dilapidated brooch to my trusted jewellery restorer in Hatton Garden, London and as ever they were able to perform a miracle and restore it to its former glory.